Saturday June 29
Yesterday was the day I was waiting for. I traveled south down the coast highway to look at some houses for rent in the village of Mazunte. I hired Sheila’s assistant Tere to go with me and translate, as the property manager who was to show us around has no english, and I no spanish (yet).
We were late. I selected the wrong bus, and it took us about 14 km past the intersection with the rural road we needed to use, and we got off at the bus station in Pochutla. We took a taxi back to Mazunte, it took 30 minutes. Total cost for 2 bus tickets and a taxi: 256 pesos. The trip back: one collectivo ride from Mazunte to San Anotonio: 20 pesos. Two bus tickets from San Antonio to Puerto Escondido: 60 pesos. Total return trip for 2 persons: 80 pesos. I learned so you won’t have to.
Janet met us at the bakery in the village at 4:30pm. We walked to the first house, up a steep hillside road, and then 50 or so steps. It was brutally rustic, and the view was marginal. The second house was rented and she could only show me the outside and not much of that. We walked to all the places on my list, on dirt, heavily rutted roads and paths on the side of the hills above the beach.
Next up was a newly built home that claims to be something of an Eco-house, Casa Irma. Similar location as the first two, the views of the ocean being limited and small. I must say I am completely spoiled now that I have been at Sheila’s place for 2 weeks. Having the Pacific Ocean as your backyard is pretty cool. Great kitchen and unbelievable sleeping rooms, but the lack of a shower or a bathtub, only a sink for getting clean made me say no thanks.
Next up was my pre-game favorite, Casa Ana. Beautiful location, a much nicer house then the first two, with a view to the west to die for, so the sunsets-over-the-ocean requirement is met. Much to my disappointment there is not a view to the east at all. It is built into the west side of the hill on the Punta Cometa, and so you have no view of the village or the beach it sits on from the house. Casa Ana was currently rented as well, but the renters were not at home, so I was able to get a good sense of it. Everything was acceptable, though not quite as good as I had hoped. WiFi is available at the house.
At the last we took a walk down the hillside to the main beach, and it is very close, as is the Mermejita beach which the house overlooks. It is a spectacular location. Everything about the village and the beach area feels very peaceful and settled. Spirits abound. There are a number of small places to eat (everything feels small there, in a very good way),varied cuisine, Italian seems popular, there is the aforementioned bakery, and one or two cafe’s. Some other small business locations. And of course the turtle museum.
I came back a bit disappointed, and rethinking my plan. I could live there, in Casa Ana, easily, but second thoughts are creeping in. I may take it for a year, or I could take it for 6 months.
I like Puerto Escondido a lot. There are a few neighborhoods that seem attractive to me, and living here I would not be so isolated. Maybe that would be a good thing for my first year here. I am going to spend a few days this week looking at some places here in this city.